Jansson’s Temptation


I recently bought tins of Abba anchovies online and welcome using them to make this dish.

A nice point is that Abba anchovies aren’t anchovies at all but Baltic sprats, cured in brine and flavoured with sugar and sweet, warm spices, such as nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. They are much milder than Mediterranean anchovies and, because of the curing process, should be stored in the fridge.

Jansson’s Temptation is traditionally served around Christmas time but I have seen it sold in slices from large trays in Swedish supermarkets at any time the year. Total comfort food.

I stand by the recipe given in The Allotment Kitchen but would add that Japanese Panko breadcrumbs make a perfect topping.

I love this dish which is the perfect meal for a late evening supper. It is essential to use anchovies in brine and not oil and even better to use Swedish tinned anchovies which are sweet and mild. To use crème fraîche may seem extravagant but, for me, it gives a hint of acidity without taking away from the richness of the dish.

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped
500g potatoes, cut into slices, preferably using a mandoline, or ‘chipped’
1 small tin anchovy fillets in brine (or Swedish Abba brand anchovies)
100 ml double cream
200 ml crème fraîche
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 slice brown bread, crusts removed, toasted and made into breadcrumbs
100g butter

Fry the onion gently in half of the butter until translucent and soft.
Place the prepared potato slices in cold water to reduce starch content and prevent them turning brown.
Strain and chop the anchovy fillets, retaining the liquid.
Mix the anchovy liquid with the cream and crème fraîche. Season with a little white pepper and possibly salt, depending on the strength of the brine.
In a shallow gratin dish, layer the potatoes, onions, and anchovies, starting and finishing with potatoes.
Carefully spoon over the cream sauce and sprinkle over the breadcrumbs. Dot on the remaining butter.
Bake at 200°C for 45–50 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked and the top is nicely browned.

Serve with cucumber, dill, and gherkins, or a green salad.