Jane Grigson writes in Good Things, ‘In the 12 days of Christmas particularly, it’s worth exploiting celery, which is then in prime condition’. How true. I love celery in stuffings, soups, salads and simply, as she suggests, with unsalted butter and sea salt. Jane Grigson offers nine different salads, ranging from Waldorf to Cromwell. Several are inspired by salads in Normandy and feature apple (she suggest the wonderful Reinette apple or Cox’s ) or truffles and ham.

The most topical of these recipes, is for celery with turkey.

Equal measures of cold cooked turkey (or chicken) with sliced, unpeeled but cored, eating apple and sliced celery and a less than half measure of grated Gruyère cheese, dressed with either vinaigrette or mayonnaise.