Apple butter is a North American treat, invented by the Dutch settlers in Pennsylvania. Basically it is a spiced apple purée made into a sweet spread with cider. Stored in jars, it will keep for a few weeks in the fridge but can also be frozen for use during the winter. Use on toast or crumpets, put some on porridge or yoghurt. I could even think of serving it with roast pork.

While the variety of apple used is not rigid, I have been warned against using Golden Delicious. My favourite cooking apples Wellington and Reverend W Wilks have both worked well. The type of sugar used can also be a choice depending on how dark you wish the butter to be. I use half light muscovado and half granulated.

1 kg cooking apples (net weight)
700ml cider
700g sugar (brown or granulated or a mixture)
1 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp cinnamon

Take the best parts of apples; there is no need to peel or core but remove any bruised sections. Wash and cut into chunks. Put into a preserving pan with the cider. Bring to the boil and cook gently until the apples are mushy. Take off the heat and, when cool, enough, press through a sieve.

Return the sieved apple to the preserving pan and add the sugar and spices. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and let it boil gently for about half an hour until the butter becomes a smooth cream. Stir from time to time to avoid it sticking to the bottom of the pan. It is not a jam so don’t expect it to set but test it by dropping a spoonful onto a plate and seeing if a ring of liquid forms around it. When there is almost no liquid it is ready to pot.

Since writing up this recipe I have learnt there is a very long tradition of ‘Black Butter’ being made on Jersey. Pre 1939 there were many orchards on the island and it was common for homes and farms to have their own granite cider presses. The ingredients are much the same as used for making apple butter but lemons and liquorice are included as well as treacle which gives it its dark colour. Jars, made by La Mare Wine Estate on Jersey, have A Great Taste Gold Award (09) and can be bought on line.