A day of unbroken cloud was the opportunity to stay inside and go through a pile of cuttings and food related articles. I kept none but did come away with ideas and some tips. Simon Hopkinson recommends adding a little sugar to horseradish sauce as it does ‘something to the enzymes’ and makes the sauce really hot.

Simply grate at least half a root of fresh, peeled horseradish, add a couple of teaspoons of sugar, some thick cream, salt and a squeeze of lemon juice.

The best time to dig up horseradish is after the first frost or before it starts to grow in the spring. It likes a sunny spot and does spread but can be contained in a large pot. Mine is spreading near the bottom of the allotment in an area that needs a good dig. A single cowslip has appeared. Any young horseradish roots that are dug out are great to use in beef stews. Either scrub them or use a potato peeler to remove the skin and add the trimmed root to the stew. Remove it before serving. In summer serve horseradish sauce with smoked fish.

Once the sauce is made, it will keep for a few days when kept in a closed jar in the fridge.