Early May and I am back from a break in the walled Tuscan city of Lucca with Anna, a friend from university days. We had a great time and some excellent meals but I returned to an empty fridge. However, I did bring back a large piece of pecorino and a tour of the allotment showed plentiful asparagus. In the deep freeze I had chicken stock left over from making nettle soup. The taste of nettles is reminiscent of peas – a flavour that goes well with asparagus. It was a perfect meal. I give quantities enough for two.

1 medium onion
2 tbsp olive oil or 30g butter
150g good quality Arborio rice
16 asparagus spears
1 glass dry white wine
1 litre chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grated pecorino cheese

Using a large frying pan on a medium heat, melt the butter (or pour in the oil) and add the onion, sliced very fine. Using a wooden spatula, stir occasionally and let it turn yellow but not brown. Add the rice and stir around so that it is impregnated with the oil. Add the wine and a little of the stock which has been simmering in a pan. Continue adding stock as it is absorbed by the rice.

Prepare the asparagus spears and cut at an angle into twos or threes. Let them simmer in salted water for about four minutes. Taste, and if ready, turn into a colander and put into cold water to prevent further cooking. You may want to cook your asparagus for longer as it is perhaps the only vegetable that we prefer less cooked than the Italians who tend to eat it soft. Your choice.

Keep tasting the rice (it will take about 20 minutes to cook) and checking to see if more stock should be added. When nearly done, season and add the asparagus and some grated cheese.

Serve in a warmed dish with more pecorino cheese offered at the table in a bowl.

Perfecto!