I was given a wonderful bunch of allotment grown basil by my neighbour Di Cray. Pesto with spaghetti is on the menu for tonight’s meal and more is stored in the deep freeze for a treat on a dark winter evening.

I had a moment’s hesitation and wondered if the pine nuts do need to be lightly roasted. Time for a troll through cookery books and, in the recipes I found, Elizabeth David, Claudia Roden and Antonio Carluccio, do not mention roasting but Anna del Conte clearly does and I am in her camp. Roasting brings out so much flavour.

More contention surrounds the cheese to be used. Pecorino is exported from Sardinia in huge quantities to Genoa to make the classic pesto but, as As Elizabeth David remarks in her recipe, it is fine to use equal quantities of Parmesan and pecorino cheese or use all Parmesan which has a milder flavour.

2 good handfuls of basil leaves, taken off their stems
200g pine nuts, lightly roasted
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
150g pecorino or Parmesan cheese, finely grated
Salt

Put the basil leaves (washed and dried on kitchen paper), pine nuts, cheese and crushed garlic in a blender. Add most of the olive oil and blend the sauce. Add more olive oil as necessary and salt according to taste.

More grated cheese can be sprinkled over the dish when serving.

Pesto will keep in a closed container in the fridge for several days.