There are so few recipes for turnips. Try them in earthy soups or lamb stews – a well considered navarin of lamb is special. Russian salad is bland without including a turnip to take away from the sweetness of the other vegetables.

The French have a way with them and this recipe, based on one in Elizabeth David’s French Country Cooking, remains my favourite. It can be bolstered by adding sweet white wine but only if it is to hand. Turnips cooked this way are delicious with duck or roast lamb.

4-6 medium sized turnips, peeled and cut in half
30g unsalted butter
1 tbsp caster sugar
3 tbsp sweet white wine (optional)
Salt

Cook the turnips in salted water for about 15 minutes or until they are almost soft. Drain (reserving some of the cooking water).

Put them into a small frying pan or skillet along with the butter, sugar and three tablespoons of water (or white wine). Cook on a low heat, turning frequently until the turnips are glazed and the sauce is brown and slightly sticky. If the sauce becomes too thick before the turnips are ready, stir in a little more of the cooking water.

Serve immediately from the dish.