Pontack Sauce was reputedly made in the kitchen of M.Pontac whose tavern, The Pontack’s Head, was established in Abchurch Lane in the City of London after the Great Fire of 1666.

M. Pontac was the son of Arnaud de Pontac, president of the Parliament of Bordeaux from 1653 to 1673. He owned excellent vineyards, including Pontaq and Chateau Haut Brion, enabling his son to offer choice wines to his guests. Evelyn, Wren and Swift frequented the tavern and The Royal Society dined there annually until 1746.

Perhaps the sauce is a Frenchman’s interpretation of English fayre at a time when it was common for a gentleman to carry his favourite sauce with him as part of his luggage. Famously it is said that Pontack Sauce should be kept for seven years before using. Mine had been kept for six. Most often served with liver, it is a great accompaniment to duck or any red meat.

In a saucepan heat together 300ml cider vinegar and 300ml red wine. Place 600g elderberries in a casserole dish. Pour over the heated liquid. Cover and put in the oven overnight at a very low temperature.

The next day, strain off the liquid and heat it in a saucepan with

1 tsp salt
A blade of mace
40 black peppercorns
12 cloves
1 onion, finely chopped
Some slivers of fresh ginger

Boil for 10 minutes and then bottle.

A dark, cool larder would be the perfect place to store the sauce. Seven years may seem a long time to wait before tasting. Richard Mabey in ‘Food For Free’* could at least report a ‘distinct improvement in richness’ between trying it after a few days and then waiting a few years.

You may choose to strain the sauce before serving.

*’Food for Free’ Richard Mabey 1972, 1989