‘Tarragon is quarrelsome in the company of the bitter herbs and, but for its role among the fines herbes, is best used alone. Very pleasant when handled with discretion, it can become repellent – and this is especially true of cooked dishes – if too liberally dispensed; in combination with parsley, chives, and chervil, a few leaves, finely chopped, bring sufficient flavour to a full tablespoon of each of the others. It often flavours chicken preparations, either hot or cold, rabbit stews, and accompanying sauces for grilled or poached fish, and grilled meats. Crustaceans welcome its presence,’ Richard Olney, Simple French Food, 1981

‘Tarragon is a herb which has a quite remarkable affinity with chicken.’ Elizabeth David, ‘French Provincial Cooking, 1969

I had never been the greatest fan of tarragon but, before winter truly set in, wanted a light and refreshing Sunday roast, Roasted chicken with tarragon was the perfect choice.

Chop enough tarragon to fill one tablespoon. In a bowl, work the tarragon into 125g of softened butter with 5 cloves of finely chopped garlic and a generous seasoning of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Using your hands and a wooden spoon, separate the skin from the flesh of the chicken breast and then, being careful not to tear the skin, put in the stuffing, squeezing it down and around the sides.

Dot a further 50g of butter over the top of the bird (or coat with olive oil) and roast on one side at190°C for 20 minutes, then turn it onto its other side for a further 15 minutes, before reducing the heat to 180°C and continuing to cook the bird, breast up, for 45 minutes or until the chicken is cooked. Check by prodding a skewer deep behind to leg of the bird to make sure that the juices run clear.

Leave to stand for 10 minutes before carving and serving. Use the giblets and juices released by the chicken to make a rich gravy.

This chicken was delicious both hot and cold with salad the next day. One more meal can be tomato and tarragon soup, made using the chicken stock.