Most of a tin of anchovies is left over from making gremolata – perfect for using in anchovy butter. Again, the recipe is an Elizabeth David classic. ‘This is a most delicious little mixture and a wonderful standby for serving with steaks or for adding to eggs en cocotte’*.

Drain the anchovy fillets and soak them in milk for about an hour. Drain. Pound them into a paste with 60g unsalted, softened butter. Season with lemon juice, cayenne and freshly ground black pepper.

Roll into a sausage shape and wrap in clingfilm or put into a small jar. Should keep in the fridge for a week which is temptation enough to spread some on fingers of toast.

*Elizabeth David, ‘Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English Kitchen’, rev ed. 1973