There must be endless versions of this dish but common to all are white poppy seeds, mustard seeds and chillies. The poppy seeds act as a thickener and mustard gives the distinctive flavour. I am very aware that what I am making is an Anglicized version of a much loved Bengali dish.

The original idea was given to me by a friend when I was researching cooking with poppy seeds. Since then I have done a lot of reading and experimenting. Monisha Bharadwaj’s books (and courses) have been invaluable. White poppy seeds can be hard to find. I buy mine on line through Red Rickshaw or Buy Whole Foods Online. Kalonji seeds can also be bought from these suppliers.

Use firm-fleshed fish, such as cod, hake or monkfish. This recipe could also be adapted to make a prawn curry.

600g skinned fish
1 tsp turmeric
3 tsp brown or black mustard seeds (or less if you prefer a milder flavour)
3 tsp white poppy seeds
½tsp kalonji or nigella seeds
1 fresh green chilli, stalk removed, cut into slices
2 tbsps freshly grated coconut (or desiccated coconut soaked in hot water for 30 minutes)
100ml coconut milk
2 tbsp vegetable oil
Small bunch coriander leaves, finely chopped
Salt

Put the fish in a bowl with the turmeric and a teaspoon of salt. Stir around to coat. Cover and keep in the fridge.

Soak the mustard, kalonji (or nigella) and poppy seeds in enough hot water to cover and leave for 30 minutes, then drain and blitz in a grinder or use a pestle and mortar to make a fine paste.

Put all the ingredients, except the coriander leaves and fish into a frying pan on a medium heat. Stir around and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat, and add the fish. Cover and cook for 12-15 minutes. Check to see that the fish is almost cooked. Add the coriander leaves and cook for a few minutes more (with the lid on or off depending on how much liquid is in the pan) until the fish is cooked and coriander softened. Check the seasoning.

Serve with plain boiled rice.

A variation on this dish is to grind all the ingredients, minus the coconut milk and grated or desiccated coconut but including the coriander leaves, into a paste with which to coat the top of pieces of fish. Dot with butter and bake in an oven for about 15 minutes or until the fish is cooked and the crust crisp and brown.