Hurrah! My dill is happy and plentiful. Dill reminds me of Scandinavia in summer. It goes brilliantly with fish, potatoes and cucumber. Three of my cucumber seeds are showing and have two leaves each. I hope for great parings of dill and cucumber for lazy lunches later in the summer.

4 smoked trout fillets
3 tsp white wine vinegar
Small handful dill. tougher stalks removed, finely chopped
Chicory

Mayonnaise made from:

2 egg yolks
Olive oil
2 tsp Dijon mustard
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp green peppercorns in brine (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Make the mayonnaise by briefly whisking the salt and pepper with the egg yolks and then, starting with a drip at a time, whisk in the olive oil. Increase the flow as you go but never let it be more than a trickle and, if using an electric whisk, never have it on more than the slowest speed. When the emulsion is thick, add the Dijon mustard and enough lemon juice to give the mayonnaise the right constituency.

Add the peppercorns (capers could be substituted).

Arrange the trout on plates with the chicory. Dress with a little vinegar, scatter over the dill and add two spoonfuls of mayonnaise on the side.