This is one of our favourite meals and a great stand by. However, a simple meal comes with caveats and choices.

The correct name and spelling is ARRABBIATA. The word comes from the Italian meaning ‘angry’. In the classic version of the dish, the ingredients are no more than olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, chilli and parsley. I love the idea of calling a spicier version ‘Incazzate’. Of course, really it is just a tomato sauce for pasta with chilli added but, as with so much of Italian cooking, nothing is ‘just’ anything. It is the thought, care and quality of the ingredients that are important.

Tomatoes can be tinned or fresh, garlic can be crushed or sliced, chilli can be fresh, dried or in flakes. The herb is usually parsley but can be basil. The only non contentious ingredient is the oil which must be extra virgin olive oil. Should it be served with cheese? The consensus is that the addition of cheese is a matter of choice. For me pecorino is first choice, closely followed by Parmesan.

Next question is which pasta to serve with the sauce. Penne is the favourite but spaghetti is also acceptable.

Finally there are additions that can be put into the sauce. Antonio Carlcuccio serves nduja – ‘a really hot pork spreadable preserve, which looks like a large salami’. Lardons can be added and onions are often included. I was given a packet of arrabbiata spice and herb mix for a Christmas present and this has given extra flavours to the taste.

200g penne
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp chilli flakes (or Arrabbiata spice mix)
1 fresh red chilli, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
400g tinned chopped tomatoes (or 5-6 large fresh tomatoes, skinned)
Small handful chopped parsley (or basil)
½ tsp red wine vinegar or red wine (optional)
Finely grated pecorino cheese
Salt

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and add the chilli, followed by the garlic. Let cook for no more than a minute before adding the tomatoes. Season generously with salt.

Simmer for about 15 minutes, breaking up the tomatoes with the back of a wooden spoon and removing any hard cores. Taste and, if the tomatoes are very sweet, you may need to add a little red wine or red wine vinegar. Stir in most of the chopped herbs.

While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta in plenty of salted water. When it is ‘al dente’ drain it lightly and add it to the sauce. Stir around for the pasta to be coated in the sauce and serve in bowls with the remaining herbs and a little olive oil drizzled over.

Have grated cheese ready to serve at the table.