I had been planning to make this tart for a while and was delighted to find that Felicity Cloake, in the Guardian (4 August 2018), had done all the research. Her recipe comes after trawling through, comparing and trying out the recipes other cookery writers have published. It makes sense, for example, to only use plum tomatoes; they are ‘drier, meatier’ and release less liquid than other varieties.

In her ideal recipe, Felicity Cloake decides not to add a ‘layer of slow-cooked onions’ that others might. I would make a case for reinstating this element if the tart is to be made for garlic haters. Luckily, none was around when I was cooking. Having tried it a few times, I am also using a little less butter and sugar.

750g plum tomatoes
2 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced
3 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked
20g sugar
25g butter
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
400g all butter puff pastry
1 handful capers or black olives (or a mixture of both)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put the tomatoes in a pan of cold water and bring them to the boil, then plunge into cold water. Leave to cool, then skin, halve and deseed them. Gently fry the tomatoes in half the olive oil for 10 minutes to dry them out a little. Take care to keep their shape. Half way through cooking add the sliced garlic and thyme leaves.

Using a tarte tatin dish or an oven-safe frying pan, make the caramel by heating the sugar with a few drops of water. Take off the heat before it becomes too dark and allow to cool for just a minute before adding the butter. Add the balsamic vinegar and stir around.

Place the tomatoes in the dish, cut side up, together with any sauce left from frying them. Season well (I also add a scant teaspoon of Aleppo chilli flakes when it feels right.)

Cover over with the pastry, tucked in neatly around the edges of the dish.

Bake for 30 minutes at 190-200°C or until golden.

While the tart is cooking, lightly fry some capers and olives in the remaining oil.

Take out of the oven and run a knife round the edge of the tart. Leave for five minutes before inverting it onto a large plate. Serve while still a little warm with the capers and olives scattered on top. Some crumbled feta might be good too.

Mentioning Felicity Cloake, I am much enjoying reading her book, One More Croissant for the Road.It is a light-hearted account of her cycling around France with some recipes thrown in.