Onion Soup


We had ‘Chaliapin Duck‘ (already on this website) over the Easter weekend and the rich stock was perfect for making onion soup..

As Elizabeth David writes in French Provincial Cooking, ‘The onion soup generally regarded as ‘French’, with sodden bread, strings of cheese and half-cooked onion floating about in it, seems to me a good deal overrated and rather indigestible’. Her French onion soup is a very different recipe, no stock but water and using pork dripping and egg yolks. It is called ‘Tourin Bordelais’.

I defend my version of onion soup. It isn’t French but it does take time and attention. The result is delicious.

6 onions, peeled and very finely sliced into rounds
1 litre good stock (duck, beef or turkey)
2 cloves garlic, sliced
150g butter
2tsp granulated sugar
4 slices crusty French bread
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g grated Gruyère cheese (optional)

Using a large, heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over a gentle heat and add the onions. Cover with a lid and let the onions sweat for about 10 minutes until they have softened.

Take off the lid and add the sugar and garlic. Gently cook the sliced onions for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the onions have a good caramel colour but are not burnt. Add the stock, season and let simmer with the lid on for 30 minutes.

In the oven toast slices of French bread. You may want to add grated Gruyère cheese to melt on top.

To serve, put the slices of French bread at the bottom of large, preferably earthenware, warmed soup bowls, and ladle on the piping hot soup.

A glass of white wine could be added to the soup and some prefer the toasted, cheesy bread to be placed on top.