This recipe for a ‘classy salad’ was inspired by the Sam Clarks at Casa Moro and given to me by Diana Cray. It is another good way to serve cauliflower and makes a refreshing salad. Without doubt, cauliflowers are having a renaissance though Cauliflower Wellington, offered this Christmas by Tesco as a vegan option at £6.00 serving two, wouldn’t tempt me at all.

I prefer to cook my own chickpeas as tinned ones can be a little too soft but tins of chickpeas in the store cupboard can be a salvation when a quick solution to an emergency is needed. Use chickpeas to eke out a stew or make hummus to serve with drinks when unexpected guests arrive.

Zaatar, much used in Middle Eastern cooking, is a mixture of spices and herbs. You can make your own using toasted sesame seeds, sumac, thyme, marjoram, oregano and cumin (toasted or not). Try adding zaatar to roasted apricots served with ricotta or in an apricot and filo pastry pie; it is seriously rewarding.

1 small cauliflower, broken into florets
240g cooked chickpeas (or 1x400g can, drained)
½ preserved lemon, rinsed, centre removed and very finely chopped
Small handful coriander leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp lemon juice
Olive oil
1 tbsp zaatar
1-2 tsp cumin seeds, lightly toasted and roughly ground

Cook the cauliflower florets for a few minutes in salted water until almost tender. Drain well and put into a bowl with the drained chickpeas and preserved lemon.

Make the salad dressing by whisking the lemon juice with good quality olive oil (about three tablespoons), zaatar and the cumin seeds (use less if cumin seeds are already in the zaatar). Season and taste.

Pour the dressing over the cauliflower. Mix the salad gently before serving.