This recipe is pure Elizabeth David and, as she writes, (this tart) ‘makes a truly lovely first course’. I cooked it for the French group’s Summer Party.

For the pastry use, 200g flour, 100g chilled butter, the yolk of one egg, chilled water and a pinch of salt. Proceed as for the quiche pastry on page 209 of The Allotment Kitchen. This is enough pastry to line a large (28-29cm diameter) quiche dish The pastry will be thin so, in hot weather, work fast. It is important to let the pastry rest in the fridge before using.

1 kl onions
50g butter (or 3 tbsp olive oil)
5 large egg yolks
430ml double cream
A few pinches of grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Oven at 200°C

Peel the onions, cut them in half vertically, and with a small sharp knife take out the triangle of fibrous parts at the base of the onion. Slice the onion very thinly, again vertically, cutting down the bulb. Turn the last section 90° to have the larger surface on the chopping board. This way of chopping onions was taught to me by Monisha Bharadwaj. It is a great tip as it gives fine, separated, slices of onion.

Put the onion slices into a large frying pan and let them cook very slowly in the olive oil or butter. It will take at least 30 minutes for the onions to soften. Stir them from time to time to prevent them from sticking. They should only hint at changing colour. Turn them into a large bowl.

Whisk the egg yolks with 430ml of thick cream seasoned with salt, plenty of black pepper and a little grated nutmeg,

Grease a large quiche dish and roll out the pastry. Line the dish with the pastry ‘pressing it gently into position with your knuckle’ (ED speaking again!).

Pour the eggs into the bowl with the onions, give the filling a stir before pouring it into the quiche case.

Place the quiche on a baking sheet and cook in the oven for about 30 minutes by when it should be set and nicely browned.

Serve very hot (ED).