We had full-cream milk, cream and eggs in the fridge and a crème caramel was perfect for serving with stewed apricots. I hadn’t made a crème caramel for ages. It is worth practising from time to time to be sure of getting the oven temperature, quantity and consistency of the milk just right; too hot and the pudding is eggy and dotted with holes, too much liquid and the custard will not set.

Halve the apricots and take the kernels from the apricot stones. Blanch the kernels in hot water and cook these along with the apricots adding a generous dash of brandy (or water) and a few tablespoons of granulated sugar. Let the apricots cook slowly for 20 minutes or so until soft in a covered pot in the oven. Allow to cool.

For the caramel
100g granulated sugar
2 tbsp water just off the boil

For the custard
425-50 ml very rich milk or milk and cream
4 large eggs
40g caster sugar (golden caster sugar if your prefer)
A few drops of vanilla essence

400g apricots
Sugar to taste
A dash of brandy (optional)

Oven at 150°C

To make the caramel, put the sugar in a saucepan on a medium heat. After a minute or so the sugar will begin to melt and turn colour. At this point stir it constantly with a wooden spoon. Caramel will form, bubbling and darkening. When it is a rich tan colour, remove it from the heat and, taking care as it will splutter, add the hot water. Continue to stir and, when the caramel is a smooth paste, pour it into a large soufflé dish. Move the dish around so that its sides as well as the bottom are coated in the caramel.

Gently heat the milk or cream and milk until almost boiling. In a large bowl whisk together the eggs, sugar and vanilla essence. Add the hot milk and continue whisking until the eggs and milk are blended. Pour the mixture into the soufflé dish. Put the dish into a roasting tin and pour hot water around the dish up to half the depth of the tin.

Put the tin into the oven and bake for about an hour or until the custard is set. Test by giving the middle a gentle press with your finger.

When ready, take the soufflé dish from the tin and let the crème caramel cool before transferring it to the fridge. To serve, run a knife round the inside of the dish and invert the crème caramel onto a plate.

Serve with the apricots and a generous helping of whipped cream.