There is a photograph on the cover of Simon Hopkinson’s book, Week in Week out, that never fails to make me hungry. It shows a veal chop sizzling in butter with sage leaves crisp and curled on top. More than just making me hungry, it transports me to Milan and I long for a Campari and soda served with a slice or orange.

Only use fresh sage. Dried sage can all too easily become damp and mushy. Sage was first found in the Mediterranean region but should withstand all but the hardest winters. My bush was on the allotment when I took it over 30 years ago. Some years I give it a severe prune and it rewards me the following summer with a mass of purple flowers.

Veal is a very tender meat which can be cooked with much more confidence than steak. Its flavour does need to be enhanced and this recipe is the classic way.

4 large veal chops
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flour
45g butter
1 glass dry white wine
8-12 sage leaves
2 tbsp chicken stock

Salt the chops and dust with flour. Heat the butter in a large frying pan until hot. Add the chops and fry for five minutes or so on each side until golden.

Add the wine and allow this to evaporate. Add the sage leaves, cut or whole as you choose, and turn down the heat to let the cutlets cook for a further 10 minutes, turning occasionally. Add a little stock towards the end of cooking to keep the chops moist.

Season and serve.