The weather has changed and it is time for a winter dish. On Saturday, I had gone to Bath Farmers’ Market specially to see Peter Hurman who runs Somerset Venison. This recipe is a firm favourite. It is based on one in The Robert Carrier Cookbook, first published in 1965 and still a treasure trove of classy recipes.

1 kl diced venison
125g lardons
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
Olive oil
2 tbsp plain flour
1 glass red wine
2 tbsp redcurrant jelly
Handful of chopped herbs – parsley and thyme
1 bay leaf
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large frying pan, sauté the lardons for a few minutes and then add the onion. Cook for a few minutes but do not let the onion brown. Transfer to a casserole dish.

Put a little olive oil into the pan and add the venison pieces which have been coated in the flour. Cook until the meat is browned. Add to the casserole dish.

Pour the wine into the pan, add the redcurrant jelly and stir around on a high heat to scrape off the crusty bits that add so much flavour. Add this liquid to the casserole.

Season, add herbs, and cook in a slow oven for at least three hours or all day if you like. Add a little wine or water if the casserole starts to look dry.

Forcemeat balls, the size of quails’ eggs, made from sausage meat, an egg and more of the herbs very finely chopped could be added to the casserole twenty minutes before serving.